Tacos may have been created south of the border, but Americans have made this Mexican food their own, with each style reflective of a time and a place. American Tacos explores them all, taking us on a detailed and delicious journey through the evolution of this dish.
In search of every taco variety from California to Texas and beyond, Ralat traveled from coast to coast and border to border, visiting thirty-eight cities across the country. He examines the pervasive crunchy taco and the new Alta California tacos from chefs Wes Avila, Christine Rivera, and Carlos Salgado. He tastes famous Tex-Mex tacos like the puffy taco and breakfast taco, then tracks down the fry bread taco and the kosher taco. And he searches for the regional hybrid tacos of the American South and the modern, chef-driven tacos of restaurants everywhere. Throughout, he tells the story of how each style of taco came to be, creating a rich look at the diverse taco landscape north of the border. Featuring interviews with taqueros and details on taco paraphernalia and the trappings of taco culture, American Tacos is a book no taco fan will want to take a bite without.
Ralat is the taco editor at Texas Monthly and the writer behind the nationally renowned Taco Trail blog. He has written for the Dallas Observer, Texas Highways, D Magazine, Cowboys & Indians, and Eater.
Table of Contents
Introduction. Your Taco Country Guide
Chapter 1. Breakfast Tacos: From Dawn Until Whenever
Chapter 2. Golden and Crunchy: Crispy Tacos, Taquitos and Flautas, Fry Bread Tacos, Tacos Dorados, and San Antonio–Style Puffy Tacos
Chapter 3. Barbacoa and Barbecue Tacos: Out from the Pit
Chapter 4. K-Mex: Korean Tacos Go on a Roll
Chapter 5. Sur-Mex: Tortillas With a Drawl
Chapter 6. Jewish and Kosher Tacos, Or Deli-Mex: Glatt, Good Eating, and Pastrami Tacos
Chapter 7. Alta California Tacos: Chicano Locavore
Chapter 8. El Taco Moderno: Contemporary, “Chef-Driven,” and Nuevo Immigrant Tacos
Appendix 1. Signs of a Truly Outstanding Taco Joint
Appendix 2. A Brief History of the Taco Holder
Appendix 3. Taco Parties
Acknowledgments
Notes
Further Reading
What People are Saying About This
Steven Alvarez
"José Ralat is the ideal guide to what has become an American staple, the US taco: a taco with a unique history and diversity of flavors here in el norte, or Mexico afuera. In this book, we learn of the importance of tacos in relation to cultural respect and appropriation. Ralat's work expands the taco canon."
Gustavo Arellano
"Everything a food history book should be: illuminating, well-written, crusading, and inspiring a taco run afterwards. You'll gain five pounds reading it, but don't worry—most of that will go to your brain."
Adrian Miller
"If tacos ever had a family reunion, José Ralat would help you remember the names and stories of all those in the room . . . even the distant cousins. American Tacos is a detailed, diverse, and salivating exploration of one of our nation's most iconic foods. "
Pati Jinich
"Mexican food is borderless, and José Ralat does an extraordinary job of exploring the diverse and fascinating array of tacos in America. Salud to this work!"
Lisa Fain
"Warning: do not read this book when you’re hungry, or you may find yourself booking a ticket to one of the spots across America that offers regional interpretations of tacos, giving the Mexican stalwart of tortillas and fillings a uniquely American spin. Bravo to José Ralat for his in-depth exploration and analysis of the American taco scene. If you love tacos, you want to read this book."
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