Dessert Person: Recipes and Guidance for Baking with Confidence

Dessert Person: Recipes and Guidance for Baking with Confidence

by Claire Saffitz

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Overview

Notes From Your Bookseller

Claire Saffitz is a rising star whose YouTube videos for Bon Appetit are all the rage. She has a loyal following who love her more for her principled stand on worker's rights and racism at Conde Nast. But her bread and butter, especially the butter, is in her pastry skills that are at goddess levels. A talent to watch and a cookbook that is highly anticipated.

NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER • In her first cookbook, Bon Appétit and YouTube star of the show Gourmet Makes offers wisdom, problem-solving strategies, and more than 100 meticulously tested, creative, and inspiring recipes.

NAMED ONE OF THE BEST COOKBOOKS OF THE YEAR BY The New York Times Book Review • Bon Appétit • NPR • The Atlanta Journal-Constitution Salon • Epicurious 

“There are no ‘just cooks’ out there, only bakers who haven't yet been converted. I am a dessert person, and we are all dessert people.”—Claire Saffitz

Claire Saffitz is a baking hero for a new generation. In Dessert Person, fans will find Claire’s signature spin on sweet and savory recipes like Babkallah (a babka-Challah mashup), Apple and Concord Grape Crumble Pie, Strawberry-Cornmeal Layer Cake, Crispy Mushroom Galette, and Malted Forever Brownies. She outlines the problems and solutions for each recipe—like what to do if your pie dough for Sour Cherry Pie cracks (patch it with dough or a quiche flour paste!)—as well as practical do’s and don’ts, skill level, prep and bake time, step-by-step photography, and foundational know-how. With her trademark warmth and superpower ability to explain anything baking related, Claire is ready to make everyone a dessert person.

Editorial Reviews

Publishers Weekly

★ 07/06/2020

“I wrote this book to celebrate and defend my love of desserts,” writes Saffitz, pastry chef and host of Bon Appétit’s Gourmet Makes YouTube show, in her exceptional debut cookbook. Chapters are divided into types of baked goods, such as pies and tarts, and bars and cookies, and the recipes are thoughtfully organized by their difficulty level: in loaf cakes and single-layer cakes, for example, one of the “very easy” recipes is almond butter banana bread, and toward the end of the section is a recipe for a pineapple and pecan upside-down cake of “moderate” difficulty. Novices in particular will appreciate the helpful footnotes Saffitz shares; for instance, when baking a tarte tatin, she writes: “Very firm, fresh apples could take twice as long to soften than... apples from the supermarket,” and for her buckwheat blueberry skillet pancake, she explains that cooking a third of the batter before adding the rest “creates a platform for the berries, so they don’t sink to the bottom.” But it’s not all confections, and Saffitz devotes a valuable chapter to savory recipes, such as caramelized endive galette and pull-apart sour cream and chive rolls. This should become a go-to reference for any home baker. (Oct.)

From the Publisher

This is a wonderful book for experienced bakers—there are plenty of surprises and challenges—and an ideal one for beginners. Look at the Recipe Matrix, choose an easy recipe that doesn’t take much time, follow Claire’s directions, and chalk up your first win. If you’re not already a dessert person, Claire will make you one.”—Dorie Greenspan, author of Dorie’s Cookies and Everyday Dorie 

“Claire Saffitz is a skillful and imaginative baker with a knack for writing beautiful recipes. Her gorgeous book will unleash the inner dessert person in a novice and inspire those who know their way around a pastry kitchen. It certainly has a place on my shelf.”—Claudia Fleming, chef and author of The Last Course

“ I’ve always been a fan of Claire’s work at Bon Appétit, and I am most definitely a dessert person, so this book really appeals to me. Her recipes all have modern twists of flavor, but at their core they are the familiar bakes we always want to get into the kitchen for.”—Claire Ptak, Violet Cakes director
 
"Claire’s easier take on the French galette des rois will win over those who want to make one with less fuss, and have more fun doing it. If anyone can turn you into a dessert person, it’s Claire. You’ll want to make everything in this book, as I do.”—David Lebovitz, author My Paris Kitchen and Drinking French

“If you know Claire (and how could you not?), gourmet Doritos and Skittles may come to mind, but she’s got so much more up her flour-dusted sleeve. From the subtle flavors of a pear and chestnut cake to miso-spiked buttermilk biscuits, Dessert Person is Claire’s personal dissertation on baking.”—Stella Parks, author of BraveTart: Iconic American Desserts

“ As a lover of all-things-dessert, I instantly identified the same in Claire—a sister in search for creative, delicious ingredients rooted in classic baking technique. She has that rare combination of creative generosity crossed with baking-professor that the very best authors can convey in a book, and it will make this one a classic.”—Elisabeth Prueitt, founder, Tartine
 

“Dessert is last in a meal but first in many people’s hearts. It also, beneath the sweetness, requires a sophisticated mix of time management, architectural thinking, visual seduction, and unexpected restraint. As these recipes prove, Claire Saffitz has all of that, and more.”—Questlove
 
“Does any chef have a more reassuring and trustworthy voice than Claire Saffitz? Equal parts tireless, hyper-organized technician and empathic cheerleader, Claire presents one of the most convincing arguments I've ever read for diving into the world of baking. If anybody can fell the wall that divides home cooks and home bakers, it's Claire, with her thoroughly modern yet classically elegant desserts.”—Natasha Pickowicz, Pastry Chef

“Exceptional . . . This should become a go-to reference for any home baker.”Publishers Weekly (starred review)

Library Journal

★ 09/01/2020

Former Bon Appétit staffer Saffitz is a culinary YouTube star, known for her homemade riffs on classic junk food staples like Twinkies, Oreos, and Doritos. Most of Saffitz's recipes have a unique savory-sweet flavor profile that will be refreshing for bakers looking for alternatives to sweet and rich desserts; likewise, she shuns over-the-top styling, food coloring, and heavy frosting, instead preferring to build dessert recipes around fresh ingredients. In this collection, she presents a variety of seasonal—and sometimes unusual—sweet bakes including quince and almond tart, a salty nut tart with rosemary, and cranberry pomegranate mousse pie. All recipes are assigned a difficulty rating, and are arranged in each chapter from easiest to most difficult. Ingredient measurements are provided in cups, grams, and ounces. VERDICT Saffitz's debut cookbook will be in high demand, though it will appeal most to experienced bakers seeking a challenge and those who appreciate modern flavor combinations in sweet and savory bakes.—Kelsy Peterson, Forest Hill Coll., Melbourne, Australia

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9781984826961
Publisher: Potter/Ten Speed/Harmony/Rodale
Publication date: 10/20/2020
Pages: 368
Sales rank: 210
Product dimensions: 8.10(w) x 11.10(h) x 1.00(d)

Read an Excerpt

Introduction


I am a dessert person. I like cakes and cookies and pies and believe that no meal is complete without something sweet at the end. When a server asks me if I saved room for dessert, the answer is always “yes.” I walk to the corner bodega late at night for a piece of chocolate on the rare occasion that I don’t have any in my apartment. Whipped cream is my favorite food of all time.

My love of eating desserts is matched by my love of making them. The alchemy that turns butter, sugar, eggs, and flour into cake never ceases to astonish or delight me. I crave the tactile sensation of dough between my fingers. Rolling out a pie crust or cutting biscuits is my version of doing yoga. Dessert is in my DNA.

So when I hear people say, “I don’t like sweets” or “I’m not a dessert person,” it makes me a bit suspicious. Sweet is one of the five tastes, so how can anyone discount it entirely? While I, too, reject cloying desserts, I suggest that those who say they don’t like sweets just haven’t found the right one. Whether it’s composed of chocolate or fruit, buttery pastry or creamy custard, there’s a dessert for everyone. In short, I think anyone can be a dessert person, even people who think they’re not.

Identifying as a dessert person isn’t just about a love of baking and pastry and all things sweet. To me, it’s an attitude; it’s about embracing cooking and eating as fundamental sources of pleasure. This is a book about baking—most of it sweet, some of it savory—but, more broadly, it argues in favor of an approach to food that is celebratory, abundant, and at times a tad luxurious.

Another thing I hear people say is “I’m a cook but I’m not a baker,” as if cooking and baking are separate disciplines when, in fact, they are closely related. These kinds of statements reveal a bias against baking. While cooking is considered creative, passionate, and improvisational, baking gets labeled exacting, rigid, and nondeviating.

This book is a defense of baking. The recipes are modern interpretations of classic dishes and put unexpected twists on familiar flavors in an effort to demonstrate just how versatile and flexible baking can be (which is why you’ll find an entire chapter on savory baking as well). As a whole, I wrote this book as a friendly rebuke to anyone who thinks of baking as a lesser art that affords fewer creative opportunities.

I started my career in the test kitchen at Bon Appétit magazine, where I still work as a video host and occasional contributor, even though I am no longer on staff full-time. Working in the test kitchen taught me to develop recipes with a sensitivity to the realities and limitations that home cooks face. As much as you or I might love being in the kitchen, I know that it can feel like work. It requires time and money to shop for ingredients. It requires washing dishes. It requires patience and attentiveness. Most significantly, it requires practice if you want to be even remotely good at it.

One reason I suspect people who cook say they don’t, won’t, or can’t bake is because baking poses a particular challenge. Unlike cooking, where you can correct course and make adjustments as you go, baking is less forgiving. It requires an understanding of certain rules and principles. Ingredients combine and transform in unseen, mysterious ways inside the oven. Success never feels like a guarantee. It took years of practice for much of my anxiety about baking to abate, but despite all my professional experience, I sometimes still feel uneasy in the kitchen. Will the filling thicken enough? Is it browning too fast on the bottom? Did the center fully bake even though the tester came out clean? These feelings are normal, and Dessert Person is here to help!

I wrote this book to celebrate and defend my love of desserts, and also to empower reluctant home bakers to work with new ingredients, attempt new techniques, and bake with more confidence. Each recipe is carefully written to provide all the information necessary to achieve a successful result. I provide notes to help explain basic baking principles, like why the butter in pie dough should stay cold, or how to whip egg whites so they form firm peaks. My goal in explaining the hows and whys of each recipe is to demystify the baking process and make it more rewarding.

My approach to baking is similar to my approach to cooking, which means I use seasonal produce whenever possible. Fruit desserts are my preference, and I usually want whatever I’m making to check one or more of the following boxes: crispy, chewy, cakey, custardy, or buttery. Just like in cooking, I strive for balance in my sweets, which is why I especially love using bitter ingredients like tahini and unsweetened cocoa, since they combine with sugar in such interesting and delicious ways. By countering the sugar in my recipes with other bitter, sour, and salty flavors, I aim for desserts that are just sweet enough. A variety of pleasing textures is important, too, so you’ll notice lots of crispy-edged, chewy-in-the-center cookies and flaky-bottomed, cream-filled tarts.

You won’t find a lot of individually prepared desserts here, since composed dishes just aren’t as fun as shareable ones. I treasure the tiny thrill of setting down a whole burnished pie, glistening tart, or fluffy layer cake on a table surrounded by friends, and the spectacle of cutting into it. Even when it turns out a little wonky, dessert is always a centerpiece, an attention-grabber, and an object of excitement.

You will not find these recipes overwrought in terms of styling, either. I see no need to try too hard, make a fuss, or be overly precious when it comes to presenting a dessert. If it tastes good, it usually looks good, too. I want a homemade dessert to look homemade, not social media–perfect. Every recipe should still be beautiful—an artful dollop of whipped cream here, a scattering of sparkly sugar there—but I’m guided by the principle that any decoration, embellishment, or garnish should also enhance flavor.

Some of the recipes feature clever, unexpected elements or flavor combinations, like the Preserved Lemon Meringue Cake (page 206) or Brioche Twists with Coriander Sugar (page 229). A lot will look familiar, too. For example, I rely on the tried-and-true mix of buttery pastry and brown sugar in my recipe for Apple Tart (page 91), since there’s simply no improving this combination. Whether it’s a recipe as unusual-sounding as Kabocha Turmeric Tea Cake (page 42), or as familiar as Chocolate Chip Cookies (page 133), I hope you’ll want to make many of these recipes again and again.

From simple Marcona Almond Cookies (page 127) to a complex Peach Melba Tart (page 121), the breadth of desserts in this book means that everyone from the beginner to the veteran home baker will find a comfortable entry point. I rate the difficulty of each recipe on a scale from 1 (Very Easy) to 5 (Very Challenging). The easier recipes are designed to make even a novice baker feel like a pro without great effort, while the more challenging recipes are projects. For more on this ratings system, read How to Use This Book (and Be a Successful Baker) on page 17.

I’ve tried in each recipe, no matter the level of difficulty, to ease the burden for home bakers. I call for standard pan sizes whenever possible. Most ingredients are ones you can find at any well-stocked grocery store, and I make every attempt to minimize odds and ends. For example, a recipe will use the full 8 ounces of sour cream in a single container, rather than 7 or 9. I strive for each recipe to have a sense of self-containment and wholeness, meaning I won’t call for two ingredients where one will do.

This book asks you to spend time in the kitchen, but it also tries to make that experience fun and interesting. I hope that it leads already committed home bakers down a path of experimentation, creative expression, and maybe even stress reduction. I hope it gives novices the confidence they need to start learning and to feel less intimidated. And finally, I hope that it persuades any skeptics that baking is more adaptable and multifaceted than they thought. There are no “just cooks” out there, only bakers who haven’t yet been converted.

Self-identifying as a dessert person is my way of declaring that no foods are good or bad. Food holds no moral weight at all. Dessert is not “sinful,” and I don’t need permission from anyone, myself included, to enjoy it. This is a book filled with practical recipes for the home baker, but it’s also my personal meditation on the benefits and pleasures of living less restrictively. I hope that you not only make something from this book, but that you enjoy it, guilt-free, with family and friends. I am a dessert person, and we are all dessert people.

Customer Reviews