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The sixteen essays in The Larder argue that the study of food does not simply help us understand more about what we eat and the foodways we embrace. The methods and strategies herein help scholars use food and foodways as lenses to examine human experience. The resulting conversations provoke a deeper understanding of our overlapping, historically situated, and evolving cultures and societies.

The Larder presents some of the most influential scholars in the discipline today, from established authorities such as Psyche Williams-Forson to emerging thinkers such as Rien T. Fertel, writing on subjects as varied as hunting, farming, and marketing, as well as examining restaurants, iconic dishes, and cookbooks.

Editors John T. Edge, Elizabeth Engelhardt, and Ted Ownby bring together essays that demonstrate that food studies scholarship, as practiced in the American South, sets methodological standards for the discipline. The essayists ask questions about gender, race, and ethnicity as they explore issues of identity and authenticity. And they offer new ways to think about material culture, technology, and the business of food.

The Larder is not driven by nostalgia. Reading such a collection of essays may not encourage food metaphors. “It’s not a feast, not a gumbo, certainly not a home-cooked meal,” Ted Ownby argues in his closing essay. Instead, it’s a healthy step in the right direction, taken by the leading scholars in the field.

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9780820345550
Publisher: University of Georgia Press
Publication date: 10/15/2013
Series: Southern Foodways Alliance Studies in Culture, People, and Place Series , #7
Edition description: New Edition
Pages: 400
Product dimensions: 6.00(w) x 8.90(h) x 1.00(d)

About the Author

John T. Edge (Editor)
JOHN T. EDGE is the director of the Southern Foodways Alliance at the University of Mississippi. He is the author or editor of more than a dozen books, including the foodways volume of The New Encyclopedia of Southern Culture.

Elizabeth S. D. Engelhardt (Editor)
ELIZABETH S. D. ENGELHARDT is a professor of American studies and women’s and gender studies at the University of Texas, Austin and is the chair of the Department of American Studies. She is the author of A Mess of Greens: Southern Gender and Southern Food (Georgia) and The Tangled Roots of Feminism, Environmentalism, and Appalachian Literature.

Ted Ownby (Editor)
TED OWNBY is a professor of history and southern studies at the University of Mississippi and is the director of the Center for the Study of Southern Culture. He is the author of American Dreams in Mississippi: Consumers, Poverty, and Culture, 1830–1998 and Subduing Satan: Religion, Recreation, and Manhood in the Rural South, 1865–1920.

Sara Camp Milam (Editor)
SARA CAMP MILAM is the Southern Foodways Alliance’s managing editor. She lives in Oxford, Mississippi.

Table of Contents

Acknowledgments vii

Introduction: Redrawing the Grocery: Practices and Methods for Studying Southern Food Elizabeth Engelhardt 1

Part 1 Cookbooks and Ingredients 7

Chapter 1 "Everybody Seemed Willing to Help": The Picayune Creole Cook Book as Battleground, 1900-2008 Rien T. Fertel 10

Chapter 2 The Women of St. Paul's Episcopal Church Were Worried: Transforming Domestic Skills into Saleable Commodities in Texas Rebecca Sharpless 32

Chapter 3 Prospecting for Oil David S. Shields 57

Chapter 4 Bodies of the Dead: The Wild in Southern Foodways Wiley C. Prewitt Jr. 76

Part 2 People and Communities 95

Chapter 5 The Soul of the South: Race, Food, and Identity in the American South Beth A. Latshaw 99

Chapter 6 Italian New Orleans and the Business of Food in the Immigrant City: There's More to the Muffuletta than Meets the Eye Justin A. Nystrom 128

Chapter 7 Mother Corn and the Dixie Pig: Native Food in the Native South Rayna Green 155

Chapter 8 A Salad Bowl City: The Food Geography of Charlotte, North Carolina Tom Hanchett 166

Part 3 Spaces and Technologies 185

Chapter 9 Eating Technology at Krispy Kreme Carolyn de la Peña 188

Chapter 10 "Americas Place for Inclusion": Stories of Food, Labor, and Equality at the Waffle House Katie Rawson 216

Chapter 11 "The Customer Is Always White": Food, Race, and Contested Eating Space in the South Angela Jill Cooley 240

Part 4 Material Cultures 273

Chapter 12 The "Stuff" of Southern Food: Food and Material Culture in the American South Marcie Cohen Ferris 276

Chapter 13 The Dance of Culinary Patriotism: Material Culture and the Performance of Race with Southern Food Psyche Williams-Forson 312

Chapter 14 "I'm Talkin' 'Bout the Food I Sells": African American Street Vendors and the Sound of Food from Noise to Nostalgia Jessica B. Harris 333

Part 5 On Authenticity 343

Chapter 15 Edgeland Terroir: Authenticity and Invention in New Southern Foodways Strategy Andrew Warnes 345

Chapter 16 Conclusion: Go Forth with Method Ted Ownby 363

Contributors 371

Index 375

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